Mineral oil has long been a polarizing ingredient in the natural hair community.
Found in many classic hair greases and styling products, it’s often dismissed as a pore-clogging, scalp-suffocating ingredient. But is it truly the villain it’s made out to be, or just misunderstood?
Let’s break down the facts behind the mineral oil debate and what it really means for natural hair.
Mineral oil is a colorless, odorless byproduct of petroleum refining. It’s been used for decades in both skincare and haircare for one key reason: its ability to seal in moisture. But therein lies the issue, it seals everything in, which can be both a blessing and a curse.
“Mineral oil is an occlusive,” says trichologist and natural hair expert Dr. Lorna Mills. “That means it forms a barrier over the hair shaft, helping to lock in moisture, but it also doesn’t allow water or nutrients to penetrate unless the hair is already well-hydrated.” For those with dry, brittle curls, this can lead to buildup over time if not used properly.
Critics also argue that mineral oil doesn’t nourish the hair or scalp the way natural oils like coconut, jojoba, or avocado do. Instead of feeding the hair, it merely coats it. This can result in a temporary look of shine and softness while potentially hiding deeper issues like breakage or dryness.
However, not all experts are anti-mineral oil. “It’s about how and when you use it,” says hairstylist and curl educator Nia Jordan. “If your hair is properly moisturized beforehand, a little mineral oil can help lock that in, especially in harsh climates.” She also notes that many legacy products like Blue Magic and Dax, often passed down through generations, rely on mineral oil for this very reason.
The key is balance. Mineral oil isn’t inherently bad, it just isn’t a cure-all. Those with low-porosity hair or sensitive scalps may find it less beneficial, while others swear by it for sealing in hydration and adding shine.
At the end of the day, it’s all about knowing your hair’s needs. Read your labels, layer your products correctly, and don’t be afraid to experiment. Mineral oil might not be a miracle ingredient, but it’s not the enemy either.
